Red kuri squash (potimarron) and chestnuts (châtaignes) are two pointy fruits that ripen about the same time in fall. They make the best partners in a smooth soup I’ve had all my childhood — this one’s a keeper, you’ll see.
Red kuri or red chestnut? / Potimarron ou petit marron?
In the wide world of winter squash is a species I love more than all the others. It is bright orange, pear shaped, and wonderfully sweet.
Most commonly referred to in the US by its Japanese name, red kuri (pronounced by rolling the R), it’s sometimes also called by its French name Potimarron.
But guess what? The two names essentially mean the same thing! As I learned years ago from a Japanese boss of mine, kuri means chestnut, pointing to its soft, starchy, and comforting nature. Red kuri is the “red chestnut squash!”
It’s no surprise because it was developed as an offshoot of the American Hubbard squash in Hokkaido, Japan; hence its other nickname: Hokkaido pumpkin.
And as I would tell anyone who’d listen when I was slinging produce at the farmers market, potimarron is derived from the French “petit marron,” the little chestnut — although fresh chestnuts go by châtaignes, but that’s another story.
All this to say, I’m not crazy when I claim that potimarron squash (or red kuri) has the velvet feel and sweetness of a cooked chestnut. These two wholesome, starchy ingredients are meant to be together, and this soup is my favorite way to honor them.
Sourcing and storing red kuri / Se procurer du potimarron
Since both potimarron and chestnut are fall delicacies with a relatively short season, grab them when you see them! They may look pantry-ready and fit for long term storage but they aren’t really.
Potimarron winter squash is in a way more of a “fall squash” because its delicate skin makes it more susceptible to spoilage, similarly to acorn, delicata, and spaghetti squash.
The beauty of its thin skin is that we can make a blended soup without having to peel the squash whatsoever (although scraping off the larger scars, if any, will yield a smoother, sweeter soup).
The bottom line is, store it on the counter and keep an eye on it for any soft spot. Then make this delicious soup as soon as you have a free minute — so long as you have a handful of chestnuts around.
Sourcing and storing chestnuts / Se procurer des châtaignes
For the chestnuts, I’ve found that the ones from the farmers market are tastier than the grocery store’s — how surprising, I know.
It’s a good way to support local farmers while getting the freshest chestnuts possible. Foraging may also be an option near you, but many of the chestnut trees in the US have been decimated by a fungus, although they may be slowly growing back!
When buying fresh chestnuts, you’ll have to blanch them and pop them out of their shell. Over the years, I’ve found this is far easier than it sounds.
If you need to buy them pre shelled, you can find them at Asian or International markets, typically in the frozen section. They are also sold pre-cooked in little snacking packets, like the ones my aunts love to get from Costco to share with the kids. It tastes fine but is more packaging for sure. I prefer to save those for a recipe where I might need perfectly shelled, whole chestnuts, like marrons glaçés.
When buying fresh chestnuts, look for ones that feel firm, smooth, and heavy, meaning they are more moist and fresh. Little chestnuts taste as good as bigger ones; they will just call for more shelling!
Once home, remember that chestnuts have two foes: humidity and drought.
Leaving them out in the open will make them dry out, and they can eventually turn rock hard.
On the other hand, if they’re piled up in a dank corner or forgotten at the bottom of the fridge, mold will easily eat them from the inside — no thanks.
I recommend making sure they are not wet, then keeping them airtight in the fridge to use within a week, or freezing them for longer storage.
Making the soup / Faire la soupe
With these two luxurious ingredients and a handful more, this soup is a wonder of simplicity. Beyond water, salt, potimarron, and chestnuts, you’ll need good butter, yellow onion, garlic, nutmeg, and the optional milk.
As for the process, this soup is very much like every other soup. The only special step is par-boiling and shelling the chestnuts, but it is quick work: a cut across their middles, followed by a 10-min bath in boiling water, and they will pop right out of the shell when squeezed. Working while they’re hot makes the process even easier.
Once you have shelled chestnuts, melt the butter in a pot and sweat diced onion and a little garlic in it (with a lid on so they stay cozy).
Add the shelled chestnuts, chopped squash (no need to be dainty, it’ll all be blended) and top with water. But just barely — the veggies should not drown or the soup will be watery. Best to add water later if needed.
Sprinkle in a little salt and freshly-grated nutmeg (pumpkin spice would also work in a pinch) and allow to come to a boil, covered. Reduce the heat, simmer till tender, and blend.
Thin it with whole milk, and you’re you’ve got a beautiful velvety soup.
Prep note / Bon à savoir
If you’re tempted to add a bouillon cube or a spoonful of Better Than Bouillon, think twice. I’ve tried them in the past, thinking they would make the soup more gourmet, but these cooking aids are usually quite sweet and complex, which is too much for the flavor profile of this humble soup.
Serve this creamy red kuri and chestnut soup alongside some easy egg cups and a salad with homemade dressing — you’ve got a meal everyone will love.
Bon appétit!
If you have any questions or insights, please drop a line in the comments below the recipe—I’ll do my best to respond.
Creamy Red Kuri Squash and Chestnut Soup — Velouté potimarron-châtaigne
Equipment
- Soup pot
- Immersion blender or blender – a weak one will do
Ingredients
- 6 oz chestnuts in shell – about 5 oz shelled
- 1 tbsp good butter – or vegan butter
- ½ sweet onion
- 1 clove garlic
- 1 medium red kuri squash – about 2 pounds
- 3 cups filtered water
- a few gratings fresh nutmeg – about 2 pinches
- ⅔ cup whole milk – or plant milk if vegan
- salt to taste
Instructions
- Prep the squash: trim the woody ends, cut it open in half, inserting the blade gradually before applying pressure. Scoop out the guts and seeds with a large spoon and compost them. Cut the squash in large pieces.
- Plop the chestnuts in a bowl of water and discard any floating ones (they are doomed).Cut each nut across the middle, horizontally.Bring a pot will some water to a boil, drop the chestnuts in and let simmer for 10 min over medium heat (5 is enough if you are working with very small chestnuts), just to get them partially cooked.
- Dice the onion and mince the garlic. In your soup pot, melt the butter over medium heat and add the alliums in along with a good pinch of salt. Let them sweat with a lid on for 10 min or until translucent and tender.
- Add the squash, chestnuts, and 3 cups of water to the pot. Add a few gratings of nutmeg, a little more salt, and give everything a stir.
- Let come to a boil over medium-high with a lid, then lower the heat to low and let simmer for 20-30 min depending on your chestnuts and squash.
- When everything is tender, transfer to a blender, making sure to open the very top so hot air can escape, and blend. Or use an immersion blender straight into the soup pot.
- Return to the pot, add 1/3 cup of milk, taste and add more salt, nutmeg or milk as needed so it is flavorful and soupy enough to be drunk. Enjoy warm.
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