Stewed lentils, often with sausage added, is an old classic of French cuisine that’s hearty and saucy. This vegan version focuses on highlighting the French green lentil itself: a cute little legume that’s chewy and delicately nutty.
A Little Backdrop
I’m now largely vegetarian. But when I was growing up, we’d always speak of cooked lentils as saucisses-lentilles (sausage-lentils). As if stewing the tiny legume with onion, carrot, and chunks of sausage was the only way it could be prepared. It was indeed the only way I knew — and it was delicious! Whenever I thought of lentils, I thought of this humble dish.
That is to say, green lentil stew is a huge classic in France. Everyone around me made a version. It’s just such a simple and homey dish. Plus, it is easy to make in large batches and is great reheated. To give you an example, every time we went hiking in the Alps with a large group of people, at least one older lady would suggest we make the dish. And on the next hike, it would restore us after much exertion.
As with any classic dish, you can expect food corporations to get their hands on it. So you can now find the commercially prepared stuff in cans. Every grocery store carries at least one version. It’s a bit like, say, baked beans in the US. In fact, some people have had it so much — and of dubious quality — that they’ve come to hate it. But to me, since the canned saucisses-lentilles I had as a kid were sweetened, it was always delicious.
Lentil stew Memories
It’s also possible I enjoyed the dish because of the memories attached to it. Like when camping as a family in the summertime. As night fell, dad would pull out a big can from the trunk. I’d see a grin on his face as he anticipated a familiar dinner’s comfort. He’d pop the can open and heat up the lentils on a small gas stove, carefully sheltering the little flame from the wind. And all the while, he’d stir the concoction as if it’d been something gourmet.
In the quickly cooling night, tired and hungry from a long day of sightseeing, we’d don our Decathlon fleece. And gathered on a woolen picnic blanket, we’d gulp the hot stew. How easily it went down and how quickly it warmed our bellies and souls!
Now, as my taste buds have somewhat matured, I want to have this dish again. But I want to make it wholesome because I can’t say I ever crave the preservatives of the canned stuff. Sure, those cans once brought me joy, and I’m grateful for that, but I know we can do better. I also think it doesn’t hurt to skip the meat, so I’m going back to the basics, the backbone of the dish — the lentils.
Not Just Any Green Lentil
French green lentils are actually not that green, but rather light green with slate-grey marbling and even specks of orange. They make me think of serpentine stones. Sadly, this all turns brown after cooking, allowing the flavor to become complex and sort of nutty. Their last attribute is their texture: the lens-shaped legume holds well to heat, so the result is nice and chewy.
Lentils grow particularly well in Central France where they’ve been cultivated for at least 2000 years. And it’s from this mountainous plateau that French green lentils originate. Though they’re now cultivated in other parts of the world, the most prized ones are still the Puy lentils (lentilles du Puy), which are named after the town where they grow.
What makes Puy lentils special is their unique growing conditions: the area’s volcanic soil, its singular microclimate (first cold, then very sunny and dry), and the traditional methods used to grow them (no watering or fertilizers). All these combined factors, aka terroir, have made this lentil famous, earning it the name “queen of lentils.” People have even fought for its recognition. Today, this little seed grown in a specific area around the town of le Puy has a “Protected Designation of Origin.”
But let me reassure you: getting your hands on Puy lentils isn’t a requirement to make a great lentil stew — though it sure helps! The OG Puy lentils are actually getting rarer, as global warming undermines the delicate balance of their growing environment. So French green lentils, wherever they’re actually grown, will make for a lovely stew. You just have to add the right balance of spices and cook them gently.
About this Recipe
If you’ve never had French green lentils before, this (vegan) French Green Lentil Stew is the perfect place to start! A humble and budget-friendly dish that’s all about highlighting the beauty of simple, high-quality ingredients. Pair with your favorite carb, a piece of cheese, and a salad — you’ve got yourself a well-rounded meal!
Do you have any experience with French Green Lentils? Where were they actually from? And what did you make with them? Let me know in the comments below!
French Green Lentil Stew — Lentilles vertes mijotées
Ingredients
- 1.25 cups French green lentils – 250g
- 3.75 cups water – see recipe
- 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- 1 yellow onion
- 5 cloves of garlic
- 1.5 tsp smoked paprika
- 2 carrots, peeled and sliced – 1 cup
- 1 tbsp tomato paste
- 1.5 tbsp organic soy sauce – or tamari
- 1 tsp coarse sea salt – or to taste
- 2 tsp maple syrup – optional
Instructions
- In a bowl, pick through the lentils to remove the occasional pebble. Give them a quick rinse with cool water to remove any dust and drain. Cover the lentils with roughly twice their volume in water and leave them to soak on the counter for 8 hours or overnight. This step brings out the flavor of the lentils and helps them cook evenly, while decreasing anti-nutrients. In a pinch, you can soak them while prepping the rest, it's still better than no soaking.
- Dice the onion and mince the garlic.
- Add the olive oil to a medium pot over medium heat and let it heat up. Add the onion, cover, and cook for 5 minutes. Give it a stir. Add the garlic and cook for another 5, or until everything is tender and fragrant.
- While the alliums cook, peel and cut the carrots (save the peel, see note.) Slice the carrots as is traditional, or cut them in any shape you like.
- Add the paprika to the pot and allow it to bloom: stir fry for a minute to release its flavor and infuse it in the oil.
- Drain and rinse the lentils. Add them to the pot along with the carrots and water. Give everything a good stir.Cover and increase the heat to bring the stew to a boil. As soon as the liquid boils, lower the heat to keep only gentle simmer. The more gently you can cook the lentils, the more you will end up with subtle, complex flavors.
- Give them at least 10 minutes before checking for doneness. Cooking time will vary based on the specific lentils and soaking time. Taste a lentil. It should still hold its shape, but be soft and easily smooshed between 2 fingers. Continue cooking, covered, as needed.
- When the lentils are fully tender, add the soy sauce, tomato paste, salt, and maple syrup, if using. (Adding the seasoning earlier would cause the lentils to harden.) Give the stew a good stir, cover, and let the flavors meld for 10-15 minutes over very low heat. (This is not crucial, but nice.) If you find the stew too saucy to your liking, remove the lid and increase the heat a little to evaporate extra liquid. I like mine loose but not quite soupy.
- Serve hot with your favorite carb: rice, potatoes, toasted bread with butter. It's also delicious with a little cheese on the side.