Potato fries can go take a hike because we’ve got a special guest tonight: celeriac fries. The samurai sauce I pair them with doesn’t have much to do with Japan; it is of Belgian origin. Get familiar with celeriac and learn how to whip up the famous sauce from scratch — sugar-free.
What is celeriac and what does it taste like?
Celeriac, also called celery root, is an ancient root vegetable enjoyed in winter. Simply put, it’s the burly cousin of celery stalk. A long time ago, celery was bred to branch out into two plants with very distinct attributes. While celery stalk has juicy stems and a small root, celeriac is just the opposite: fibrous stems with a chunky root.
We humans are such meddlers, aren’t we?
Celeriac as we know it today tastes mild and clean, with hints of lovage and lemon zest. In its raw form, its flesh has a smooth mouthfeel and a soft crunch. Cooked, it becomes tender, while its taste turns sweeter and bolder — much like parsnip.
How to choose, store, and prep celeriac?
Ideally, the knobby thing should feel heavy, an indication that it hasn’t dried out and is fresh. It should also feel firm all over. But if yours happen to have small soft spots, don’t worry too much because the vegetable is dense, the blemishes usually shallow and easy to remove.
Once you bring it home, don’t wash it right away as excess moisture can accelerate spoilage. Rather, set its roots in a bowl filled with water and place it in the fridge. This way the roots can stay moisturized. Your celeriac should keep for a couple of weeks.
If you’re intimidated by celeriac, don’t be. This rustic-looking vegetable is kinder than it looks: easier to cut than a carrot and more forgiving to cook than a potato. Prepping it is rather straightforward as you can eat the whole thing. Simply scrub clean with a vegetable brush, then cut off the thin hair-like roots at the bottom as they taste bitter. But don’t worry about getting every single bit off.
While its appearance may be rough, celeriac is actually thinned-skinned — just like us. I don’t find peeling necessary, except if you’re seeking a clean, uniform look, like in a purée. For this celeriac fries recipe, you can peel it or not. I find both ways come out good, the skin only imparting a slightly stronger, more toasty flavor.
How do French people eat celeriac?
Celeriac might sound like a French word, but it isn’t. In France, the vegetable goes by céleri-rave. And the major way the Frenchies eat céléri-rave is in the mayo-laden salad céleri rémoulade (Celery Root Salad). It’s not to be confused with the Cajun remoulade sauce, which does contain mayo but not a speck of celeriac. In France, céleri-rémoulade is a mainstay starter dish at home or on the go, in bistros and cafeterias. Often, it’s found alongside grated carrot, beet, and cucumber salads.
Many people cook it too. Celery root makes its way into soups, gratins, and purées, often mixed with potatoes and cream for a mellower flavor. Nagi at RecipeTin Eats has a celeriac soup that illustrates this well.
But celeriac can also stand on its own. Today’s celeriac fries with samurai sauce showcase this with a humble seasoning and lip-smacking dip.
What pairs well with celeriac?
Creative folks like the French food blogger Delia of Deliacious go so far as to pair the pale root with the assertive flavors of coffee. You can see her recipe and stunning photos here.
As for me, I like finding an ingredient’s close cousins to amplify its essence. In botany, celeriac is classified as part of the Apiaceae family, alongside carrots, caraway, coriander, cumin, parsley, and others. Any of these flavors I’ve just mentioned pair well. In this recipe, we’re using caraway and cumin.
Because celeriac is a root, it has a fairly neutral pH and benefits from a little acidity. This means it pairs beautifully with citrus, pickle brine, vinegar, and by extension mayo… or even better, samurai sauce.
What is samurai sauce?
Samurai sauce, or sauce samouraï, is one of the great kebob sauces. Originating in Belgium, it’s a mayonnaise spiked with ketchup and harissa, a Maghrebi red pepper sauce of Tunisian origin. Put these ingredients together, and you get samurai, a staple at kebobs around France.
Any mayo-based sauce has a special place in my heart, but this one’s long been my go-to when eating kebob with friends. It has to do with how the mayo blends perfectly with the ketchup’s savoriness and harissa’s zesty, sun-dried flavors. I particularly like the Villa Jerada brand, which is made in Seattle and is more complex than hot.
Why this recipe’s a banger
Celeriac fries may not crisp up like regular potato fries because they lack the starch, but they’ll caramelize on the outside and soften on the inside. And with just olive oil, a little salt and dried thyme, this yields flavorful fries with a sweet and tender core.
The rich, zesty sauce holds it all in balance. The mayo provides tang and that rich mouthfeel we all know and love. The cumin and caraway in the harissa complement the notes of celery. Finally, the tomato paste, which I’m opting for in place of ketchup, brings just enough natural sweetness to have you coming back for more.
Bon appétit!
>>For a full meal, try pairing these with my easy French green lentil stew.
>>And for desert, how about this floral orange salad?
Do you have more question? Feel free to drop a word in the comments below! And if you make the recipe, please rate it for others to know.
Celeriac Fries with the Best Samurai Sauce – Frites de céleri-rave sauce samouraï
Equipment
- baking sheet or dish
Ingredients
For the fries
- 1 celeriac, aka celery root or knob – about 1 pound
- 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- 1/2 tsp fine salt – unrefined
- 1/4 tsp dried or fresh thyme
For the dipping sauce
- 2 tbsp organic mayonnaise – vegan mayo works well
- 1 tsp North African harissa sauce
- 1 tsp tomato paste
Instructions
Make the celeriac fries
- Preheat the oven to 390°F with a baking sheet on a lower rack. This enables the sheet pan to preheat so the fries will cook faster without drying out.
- Peel the celeriac with a vegetable peeler if you want a milder flavor. Otherwise, simply trim most of the thin roots with a paring knife. Cut the celeriac in half, then set the flat side down and cut slices about 1/3 inch thick. Cut each slice into sticks.
- Add the fries to a medium bowl followed by the olive oil, salt, and thyme. Toss until the fries are evenly coated. Since celeriac is safe to eat raw, you can taste at this point and adjust the salt if needed.
- When the oven is hot, carefully take the baking sheet out and spread the fries over it, making sure to leave a little space between each for even cooking and evaporation.
- Bake for about 20 minutes, or until fries are tender.
Make the samurai sauce
- In a separate bowl, add the mayo, harissa, and tomato paste. Mix well. Serve the sauce alongside the fries.