Bánh-mì is now well-known on the international food scene as a vibrant and comforting sandwich. Let’s look into its origin in Vietnam; my encounter with it in France; and how you can craft your own, wherever you are. Today’s version is plant-based and quite wholesome, featuring crispy tofu and fresh veggies in a sourdough baguette. Learn to make this beautiful dish so that you can enjoy it for days to come!
A crossroad of cultures
Most of us know by now that bánh-mì is a Vietnamese sandwich. But how did this tasty fare come about? Like many foods throughout the world, it resulted from the movement of people. Namely, through colonialism.
France, in its dreams of colonial empire, occupied Vietnam from 1887 to 1954. In doing so, the colonizers travelled with the beloved food: bread and especially baguette. Naturally, the food was given a new name upon arrival.
Two words in Vietnamese
I don’t speak Vietnamese, but talking with Tiam, a Vietnamese-French family friend, I learned a few things. Many Vietnamese words are juxtapositions of ideas that easily come together with a little imagination. Bánh-mì is a good illustration of this.
“Bánh” is the Vietnamese word for cake or baked goods. Traditionally, this designates confections made of rice, taro, or other local starch. “Mì” translates to wheat flour and by extension, any product made of wheat.
Bánh-mì came to refer first to the baguette itself, which soon after its arrival was adopted by local artisans. Certainly, wheat products were already eaten in Vietnam due to nearby Chinese influence. But this cultural turn marked the beginning of baguette in Vietnamese culture — and a new life for baguette.
With rice being the “king” crop, as Tiam put it, wheat was imported and therefore pretty pricey. So the bakers threw some white rice flour into the mix. This resulted in a light, fluffy baguette with a thin, crispy crust. The baguette was made short, aka demie-baguette in French, which is perfect for a single serving with no leftovers! To this day, this is still the kind of baguette that’s made in Vietnam — and used for bánh-mì.
The everyday sandwich
As local flavors were layered onto this new bread, bánh-mì began to refer to more than just baguette. It also referred to the sandwich made with it. Many street carts started offering the sandwich. Soon it was found in a variety of flavors for a quick breakfast or snack on the go.
Tiam explained that while a bowl of pho can be 4 or 5 bucks, a bánh-mì costs 1 dollar. That’s hard to pass for such a well-rounded dish! I came to a similar conclusion as a broke student in Paris.
Because my school cafeteria was unreliable (a rare occurrence in France), I’d often step outside in search of a cheap lunch. I’d walk to this small shop down Rue de Vaugirard and get myself a warm bánh-mì. Not only was it affordable, but it would also satisfy my hunger for a tasty bite. By the end of the school year I’d eaten quite a few.
Since the bánh-mì shop was held by a Vietnamese-French nostalgic for homeland flavors, the sandwiches were legit! The lady there would bustle behind the counter, repeating a well-oiled choreography, and assemble one in a few minutes. She looked like she had made a million of these — and she probably had.
Bánh-mì’s constant evolution
On the West Coast of US, I again encountered the charming bánh-mì. Except it was made by all kinds of folks and found in greater abundance and variety than in France. I now enjoyed avocado or marinated soy-curl versions, among others — each with its own strength.
These reflected a clear desire to appeal to an American clientele. In Vietnam, where access to tofu is widespread, people would much prefer if their bánh-mì contained a bit of meat. As Tiam told me, meat can be expensive and hard to come by.
But this isn’t to say that their sandwiches aren’t loaded with veggies. Because of the abundance of farmland, Vietnamese folks are said to love fresh produce. As such, quick-pickled veggies are a staple in their bánh-mì. You’ll find a healthy dose of it in this version too!
Seasonal ingredients bring it to life
Carrots and daikon are a great place to start. I like purple daikon for extra pep, but other radishes like watermelon, Korean, or even black radishes would be great too.
Crisp cucumbers are a classic as well. But once they die down in the fall, I don’t get discouraged. I resort to baby bok choy or kohlrabi. The latter brassica has a satisfying crunch. It’s juicy and refreshing, much like a cucumber!
For spice, I like using jalapeño slices. I hear that Vietnamese people tend to prefer cleanly-divided bites of flavors. So slices of fresh chili are definitely more traditional — but hot sauce works wonders when the fresh stuff runs out.
That about sums it up. The bánh-mì we’re making today strives to make the best of what’s available. Completely plant-based, it’s filled with savory tofu and refreshing veggies — true to its roots.
Except the sourdough. I like to use this variety of baguette because of its whole and fermented grains, allowing you to enjoy the full nutritional benefits of this sandwich. But of course, feel free to use another bread.
Bon appétit!
How do you like to make your bánh-mì? What flavor combinations will you try this time? Let me know in the comments below!
>>Need a side for your bánh-mì? Try this easy mushroom & avocado salad.
>>Looking for more fresh veggies? Try this grated carrot salad.
>>Cilantro lover? Try this hearty vegetable couscous recipe.
A bánh-mì for today and tomorrow – Un bánh-mì de tous les jours
Ingredients
For the pickled veggies
- 1 fresh carrot
- 1 small purple daikon – or other radish
- 2 tsp rice, white wine, or apple cider vinegar
- salt to taste
For the tofu
- 1 block organic firm or extra-firm tofu
- 1 tbsp oil of choice – for frying
- 2 tbsp organic soy sauce
- freshly-ground black or white pepper to taste
- 1/8 tsp cassia cinnamon – optional
- 1/8 tsp star anise powder – optional
For the spread
- 3 tbsp your favorite mayonnaise
- 2 cloves garlic
- 1 tsp hot sauce, to taste – or small red or green jalapeño
For serving
- 1 fresh sourdough baguette
- 1 small bok choy – or cucumber, red cabbage, kohlrabi
- 10 sprigs fresh cilantro – or more to taste
Instructions
- Turn the oven on to 350°F if you wish to reheat your bread. Take the tofu out of its liquid and let it drain on a plate. Prepare the pickles by slicing the carrot and radish thinly.
- Once you have slices, you can easily cut them in thin matchsticks. Alternatively, you can use a large grater or mandoline shredder.
- Put the matchsticks in a bowl and toss them with 1 tsp vinegar and salt to taste. Mix well, taste, and adjust seasonings if needed. Set aside.
- Pat the tofu dry with a tea towel, slice it thinly, and fry it in a little oil over medium heat for 5-7 min on each side, or until nicely golden. This will provide some texture and make it absorb flavors better.
- To a bowl or hollow plate, add the soy sauce, black or white pepper to taste, and the anise and cinnamon, if using. Once the tofu is fried to your liking, transfer them to the sauce and toss well to distribute the flavors. Set aside.
- Season your mayo. Mash the garlic, carefully crushing it on a cutting board with the flat of a knife and add it to the mayo with a little salt if needed. Season with hot sauce to taste if not using fresh chili.
- Slice the other veggies and roughly chop the cilantro.
- Put the baguette on a baking sheet and slide it in the oven for about 5 min to soften it and make it crispy and warm again. Cut the baguette in half, then cut one side lengthwise, making sure to not cut through the very end so that it’ll hold the veggies and juices better and not drip on you! Scoop a little of the crumb to make more space for the filling. Enjoy as snack.
- To assemble, open the baguette and spread a generous amount of mayo on both sides. Add the veggies and the tofu and finish with the pickles and cilantro. Enjoy right away.