In the kitchen, cultivated portobello and wild parasol mushrooms are two sides of the same coin. This Portobello and parsley stir-fry is a quick and healthy side dish that brings out the best of whichever you have on hand.
Picking parasol mushrooms in Burgundy
Is anything more fun than picking wild mushrooms? Back when I was little, my family had a small tradition. It wasn’t anything planned or even spoken of; it just happened.
We’d spend the last weeks of summer vacation, les grandes vacances, at my grandparents’ place in rural Burgundy. And rural it was. Our days were lulled by the warm humming of bees and rich homemade meals. We’d go about our business, nestled among soft rolling pastures on which lived the emblematic local meat cows, les vaches Charolaises.
Sometimes while roaming about, we’d get lucky. In the middle of a field, between Queen Anne’s Lace flowers and a green cowpat, we’d come across a tall parasol mushroom (Macrolepiota procera). Or what we called coulemelle.
There never was a question of identification. Our senses would leap forward, and we’d know. From its fruiting location and elegant silhouette to its pinkish skin and unmistakable smell, it was beyond doubt that we had found a beautiful coulemelle.
We’d pick any and all the mushrooms on our path and bring the specimens home. Later, we’d stir-fry them with parsley and plenty of butter for a luscious dinner. While the parasol’s flavor may be described as pleasantly nutty or lightly fruity, it’s overall, well, very mushroomy. But in a gentle kind of way.
Alas, all good things come to an end. Traditions die down. Perhaps the pretty parasol disappeared from the region? At any rate, I drifted away from that idyllic place and its unique terroir.
The parasol mushroom in North America
Since moving to the U.S., I haven’t encountered any coulemelle. But neither have I really sought it out. While proper ID’ing in a familiar environment can be child’s play, I’m wary of picking outside of my comfort zone — as any forager should be. This choice edible is known to have many lookalikes which are toxic to varying degrees.
For example, the green-spored parasol (or false parasol), more common across North America, is responsible for the majority of foraging intoxications here. There are also a few species labeled under the umbrella term of “shaggy parasol” that some consider edible, while others report digestive distress. Not my idea of a peaceful foraged meal.
Easy portobello mushroom & parsley stir-fry
To revive these childhood flavors, I turn to a cultivated equivalent — good old portobello. Now, by all means, if you can find true parasol mushrooms, use them. This recipe will work for either. In fact, both the parasol and portobello are classified in the broad category of Agaricus mushrooms, so the substitution isn’t so far-fetched.
As far as preparation goes, it couldn’t be simpler because this dish is more about showing off the mushroom’s greatness and less the cook’s. Black pepper, garlic, butter, and curly parsley are all you need to make this stunning side dish.
While many people fry the mushrooms in butter, I prefer frying them in extra virgin olive oil which can better withstand heat. I do use butter but only as a finishing touch, preserving its vitamin content and delicate flavor. And there you have it: a quintessence of French home cooking.
This portobello parsley stir-fry is a flavor bomb and makes a delicious addition to a burger, a sandwich, or a bowl of polenta (here’s a thoughtfully-prepared recipe by The Nourishing Gourmet).
Bon appétit!
>>Need more mushroom indulgence? Try my escargot butter stuffed creminis and my vegetarian tartiflette with oyster mushrooms.
Have you been able to forage any parasol mushroom lately? Let me know in the comments below because I’m dying to know!
Portobello parsley stir-fry – Fricassée de portobello au persil
Ingredients
- 1 large organic portobello mushroom – or wild true parasol mushroom
- 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- sea salt – to taste
- finely ground black pepper – to taste
- 1 small clove garlic
- 1 tbsp grass-fed butter – raw if possible
- 6 sprigs curly parsley – or Italian parsley
Instructions
- Gently rinse the top of the mushroom cap to remove any grit. Rock the stems back and forth to break them off. (Save the stems; see notes.)
- Slice the caps about 1/3 inch thick.
- Separate the parsley leaves from their stems. Mince the stems very finely and the leaves less finely. Mince the garlic clove.
- Heat up a stainless steel skillet over medium-low heat. Add the olive oil and let it warm up. Add the mushroom slices and minced parsley stems, salt and pepper to taste, and let the slices cook, stirring occasionally so all sides are evenly cooked: until there are no pale spots and there is a little browning.
- When the mushrooms are done, toss in the minced garlic and stir-fry for about a minute or until fragrant. I like a slightly raw garlic flavor but cook longer if you prefer.
- Remove from the heat, add in the minced parsley leaves and butter, and toss to coat. Taste and season with more salt and pepper if needed. Enjoy hot.